The Grizzlies of The Great Bear Rainforest

Incidental Naturalist

I turned off the lights to the small room in Telegraph Cove, Vancouver Island, plunging it into a blackness that is rarely found in an electric world. The blackness cradled me into a deep sleep, only to be rattled awake a couple of hours later, by a wall of sound. Torrential rain was lashing the window, and drumming on the roof. This was not a good omen for the day ahead, that I was to spend on a small boat, in search of a true North American idol, the Grizzly Bear.

Morning arrived, and my sense of doom was heightened as I watched little rivers snaking down the window pane, under a charcoal sky. I dressed for rain and warmth and walked to the boat. The Skipper was shaking his head and making offers of a full refund; “too much rain, we probably won’t get the boat up the river to where we…

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